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Author Topic: Ph levels and nitrates and feeding frogs  (Read 5238 times)
« on: March 16, 2008, 06:42:51 PM »

Q1. I have a 10 gallon tank with 3 male guppies and 2 african dwarf frogs. Current ph is 6.4-6.6

I also have a 20 gallon tank with 2 platies and 1 swordtail. Current ph is the same.

Are these okay? I read that 7.0-7.8 is ideal, specifically for livebearers and frogs.

Water coming out of the tap is 6.4-6.6

If I need to adjust, how do I maintain the adjustments when doing water changes?

Q2. Also.. in my 20 gallon, which is cycling, I still have some ammonia issue (0.50), some nitrites (can't remember, but it was the lavendar on the API), and am starting to get nitrates (the second from the bottom on the API... can't remember numbers again)... is this tank cycling properly? I've been doing daily 10-15% water changes and using Prime water conditioner each time.

My 10 gallon has about 0.25 ammonia. It's pretty new. I haven't tested nitrites or nitrates on the API yet, but did a quick strip and saw that there were some nitrates starting to develop, but no nitrites that I could tell. (Those things are hard to read... I just need to get the API out on it.) I've been doing water changes (10-15% every other day) and using Prime in that tank as well

Any thoughts on how these tanks are coming along?

Q3. And ... how the heck do I make sure my little frogs are eating? I read somewhere that someone had used a glass bottle and put food in it... I bought a brand new saltshaker, (empty) cleaned it up (no soap), dropped a could of freeze dried bloodworms in it, and the stinkin guppies swam in and ate it all! The gups also seem to eat everything off the top, so nothing sinks, and I don't want to foul up my water by overfeeding. One frog will eat off of my finger (I don't touch him at all... food is just at the tip), but the other won't. Too shy still, I think.

EDIT: How to I determine the sex of my frogs? And how often should I feed them?
« Last Edit: March 16, 2008, 06:51:05 PM by nicci » Logged
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Tanks: 150g Reef, 40g Reef, 29g Planted
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« Reply #1 on: March 16, 2008, 06:58:10 PM »

Don't worry about the ph.  As long as there are no dramatic swings your critters will adapt.

The frogs will not survive a cycling tank as I understand it, or at least it will be extremely difficult on them.  Change more water more often, 50% as soon as you detect ammonia or nitrItes.  I would say to use Prime to detox but I have no idea if that's ok for frogs or not.

Everything else sounds normal.  Ammonia will drop and nitrItes will rise (and so will the nitrate readings; I've just learned).  The nitrItes will stay high for a while, it's the slowest part of the cycle.  Water change, water change, water change.

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« Reply #2 on: March 16, 2008, 08:39:37 PM »

Both aquariums are cycling and your readings appear to be normal.

ph - Fish will adapt to your pH. No need to worry about it.

Feeding ADFs - Drop food in tank, they will find it. They bite at anything that moves which includes food. Wink There isn't any reason to make special feeding arrangements for them, simply drop the food in the tank.

ADFs and a cycling tank - Not good. ADFs generally do not survive in an uncycled tank. They do not tolerate Nitrite or Ammonia being in their water. As Mark said, up the amount of water you change on their tank and do it daily. 50%, once a day until the tank is fully cycled.

You can feed them small amounts daily. They will also eat any of the flake that the guppies miss. Vary their diet. There are some suggestions in the profile below.

Guppies in an uncycled tank - Not good. The 50% daily water changes will increase their chances of surviving also.

I don't have a clue why anyone would put the frogs food in a glass bottle. Wink Some people put the bottom part (dish) of a taracotta pot in the bottom of the tank and place their food on it. You could do that if you wanted to, but there's No need to. They will find their food, don't let other sites confuse you and make you fear that they will starve to death if you don't take drastic measures to ensure that they eat. No one pokes food in them in the wild and they still manage to survive. Wink

Sexing ADFs: Males are slimmer, have a lump (gland) under their front legs on their sides. Females: Plump, a bit larger when they reach adult size. It's really hard to sex them when their young. And if you see them hugging, the one on top will be the male.

Hope this Helps!!! Welcome To Badmans!! happy

Don't add any more fish to your tanks. You can add one more ADF to it after it is fully cycled.


Hymenochirus boettgeri, etc.  (AFRICAN DWARF PROFILE)

Commonly kept in today's aquariums, the African dwarf frog can be a peaceful member of a community setup.
Quick stats:
Listed tank sizes are the minimum 
Size: Up to 1.5" (38mm) Total Length 
Tank: The tank height should be no more than 16 inches max, preferably only 12 
Strata: Bottom mostly, middle
PH: 7.0 to 7.2 but they can live in a wide range of PH levels
Temperature: 70's, do not let the temp. drop below 70º or above 80º


Order: Salientia or Anura
Class: Amphibians
Family: Pipidae 
Genera: Hymenochirus
Species:  boettgeri, etc. 

Common name:

African Dwarf Frog
Image gallery:
Additional species photographs


Badmans' Forum

Central Africa, Nigeria and Cameroon and through the Zaire Basin to eastern Zaire.
Life Span:
5 years

Skin Shedding:
ADF's shed their skin every 1 to 2 weeks. It only takes a few moments.



Frozen or freeze dried bloodworms & brineshrimp, Reptomin, any brand of sinking commercial frog food, flake food, livebearer fry.


Bare or gravel.


Live or Silk plants. ADF's do not eat live plants.

Tank décor:

Provide adequate hiding places. Caves, etc.


Quieter models of filters are best. ADF's do not do well in high current tanks.

Turn off lights just as you do for your fish. ADF's need a night/day.

Tank maintenance:

Perform once a week water changes/gravel vacs. Male dwarf frogs "sing" when trying to find a mate. ADF's can be kept with other aquarium fish. The fish should be non- aggressive and in general small. You must make sure that the fish do not eat all of the food before the dwarfs have time to eat. Do not keep ADF's and ACF's in the same aquarium! African Dwarf Frogs are very active and add an interesting touch to any aquarium. Although entirely aquatic, dwarf frogs have lungs and periodically rise to the water surface to gulp a breath of air. Their water must be clean and chemical free. ADF's have webbed front and back feet.

     "Give others freedom to be themselves. Appreciate the differences between their ways and yours."
« Reply #3 on: March 17, 2008, 05:47:35 PM »

Thanks... I've been doing pretty regular water changes on both tanks (daily on the 20 gallon and every other day on the 10 gallon). I'll up the 10 gallon to daily.

I think the most frustrating part of being new to all of this is that there are so many different ideas on how to do everything. I've read that changing more than 10-15% daily will surely kill everything and that it will cause my tank to NEVER cycle. I've also read that 25% daily is fine when cycling. And as far as what fish can go in what tanks and who is strong enough to cycle with and you NEED to fix your ph and don't fix your ph. It's so frustrating! So far I've been going with what seems most logical. daily water changes of 50% make a lot of sense... getting more clean water in more frequently. I just hope our water bill can handle it.

And of course, being told that gups and adf's are *great* for cycling... that is my current annoyance.

By any means, I'm testing the water daily and I'll bump up the water changes. Hopefully we'll all make it through.

I'm going to be posting another question about Prime water conditioner... I don't want to just put it here so I can get enough answers.

But here it is anyway...

According to the ad for Prime, it converts toxic ammonia into non-toxic and detoxifies nitrite and nitrate AND can be used during cycling. I've noticed an improvement in my fish since I started using it... I think.
Is this stuff as great as it claims to be?
Does it acutally screw up the cycling process?
« Reply #4 on: March 17, 2008, 05:59:36 PM »

One other worry...

The gups have become little bottom feeders. Should I still feel confident that my adf's are eating?

Stinkin' guppies.  Wink
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« Reply #5 on: March 17, 2008, 06:15:43 PM »

Feed enough food for the guppies and the frogs. Take care not to overfeed and foul your water. Keep to a regular schedule of weekly water change/gravel vacs and you shouldn't have problems.

Your little frogs will get enough to eat. Vary their diet and they should be fine. happy

     "Give others freedom to be themselves. Appreciate the differences between their ways and yours."
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