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Author Topic: In need of some help  (Read 22757 times)
russ
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« Reply #25 on: October 17, 2014, 09:15:27 PM »

When I had my shops, we offered free water testing, but there was some stipulations to that process. In order to guarantee any reasonable accuracy in the testing results, the test would have to be conducted in a relatively short matter of time (let us say, at max. 30 minutes with allowing for collection, securing the water and travel to the shop). The container that the water is in also matters. If a customer came in with a baggie full of water that contains their dead fish that died because they think it might be the water parameters are off, that isn't going to work well at all.

Even when a person can 'secure' the test water, the time clock starts ticking when the hobbyist has to travel to a shop to get it tested. Test water from a tank with fish contains CO2. That CO2 will have nowhere to go except stay in the water until the container is opened which will allow that CO2 to escape. CO2 escapes and pH starts to skyrocket thus giving the hobbyist a inaccurate true read of what it is inside their aquarium. There are other variables, but I think you start to see my point. And that is just for one part of water testing. That is to obtain a multi-testing kit (not multi-test strips) and perform the tests yourself.

Instead of obtaining single test kits piecemeal, I recommend you invest in a 'master' testing kit that contains all the main testing kits you may need and then perform tests yourself. API does offer a very reasonable master test kit that can be obtained online. It will be one of the best investments a hobbyist can make.  happy

*Added after new reply..................... yes, test your tap water and please provide that results also.  happy
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Adamo141
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« Reply #26 on: October 17, 2014, 09:25:04 PM »

0ppm ammonia before treatment and after
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Adamo141
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« Reply #27 on: October 17, 2014, 09:28:40 PM »

Ammonia 0ppm pre and post treatment
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Karen
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« Reply #28 on: October 18, 2014, 05:38:04 AM »

So, if you know your tap water is zero, do an 80% water change on your tank.  And in 12 hours, do another one.
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Adamo141
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« Reply #29 on: October 18, 2014, 07:28:26 AM »

I will do that tonight and in the morning, thanks for the advice!
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« Reply #30 on: October 18, 2014, 03:45:48 PM »

Water test readings
Ammonia- 7ppm
Nitrite-0ppm
nitrate-2.5ppm

Test results starting to look a little more believable. I will do an 80% change today and another tomorrow and see what that result brings.
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Adamo141
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« Reply #31 on: October 20, 2014, 04:38:44 PM »

completed a 50% WC yesterday waited 24h tested ammonia and it was substantially lower after 1 dose of prime. Today I performed a 50% WC and added the prime again. Tomorrow I plan on testing all parameters again.
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Pat Mary
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« Reply #32 on: October 20, 2014, 04:45:33 PM »

Doing 50-80% water changes is what is changing your ammonia readings; not the use of Prime.  Prime changes ammonia to ammonium which is less toxic for fish.  But, it still will give a reading.  What is your reading for ammonia now?
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Karen
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« Reply #33 on: October 20, 2014, 06:02:26 PM »

Why only 50% at 24 hour intervals?  You were encouraged to do 80% on 12 hour intervals.  8ppmm's of ammonia is lethal, you don't need to slowly lower it, you need to make it gone yesterday!
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Pat Mary
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« Reply #34 on: October 20, 2014, 06:19:39 PM »

Ohhh, I missed that, Karen.  lame

Actually, we always tell people to do a large water change whenever any ammonia over .25 ppm is detected.  That can be a few times a day in some cases.   We still need your reading. 
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Adamo141
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« Reply #35 on: October 20, 2014, 08:31:36 PM »

I'm sorry, my water change was 5 gallons out of a 10 gallon tank with about 2 inch of gravel/substrate so with that and the water displacement of decor it is more then 50%.

Anyways the water changes I have been doing daily for multiple weeks and my ammonia reading never changed. After adding the prime is the only change in ammonia I have had and it went from 8ppm down to about 2ppm with a 50% change. It seems as if the prime made the difference. I still feel as if there was a false reading somewhere.
My fish are still showing no signs of ammonia poisoning
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Karen
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« Reply #36 on: October 21, 2014, 07:48:26 AM »

Apparently our advice isn't worth listening to.

And part of the reason why your ammonia is dropping is because your tank is cycling, don't forget that part.
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« Reply #37 on: October 21, 2014, 11:55:14 AM »

Everyone's advice is worth listening too. There are multiple people giving me advice on multiple forums so I try and follow the general consensus.
Today's water

Ammonia-1.0ppm
nitrite-0ppm
Nitrate-2.5ppm
pH-7.4
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russ
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« Reply #38 on: October 21, 2014, 10:12:40 PM »

The Buddha, it is said, once cried out in pity for a yogi he met by a river. The unfortunate adept had delighted in showing the great teacher that after twenty years of study and meditation he had learned to walk on water. The Enlightened One, however, was sad that the fellow had invested so much time in trying to walk across the river. The ferryman a few yards downstream, after all, would have gladly taken him across the river for a small fee.

The experienced members on this site are like ferrymen and our fee is nothing more than seeing a new hobbyist succeed. If you wait around gathering consensus before deciding what course of action to take for each issue you encounter with your aquarium, very little will get accomplished with great effort and lost time.
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« Reply #39 on: October 22, 2014, 10:20:49 AM »

It seems to me that you think that the use of Prime is causing your ammonia level to drop.  If that assumption is correct on my part, you are mistaken.  Prime, while being a great product, does not cause ammonia levels to fall.  All that it does is temporarily change the ammonia to ammonium which renders the ammonia harmless to your fish.  The ammonia is still there.  What is dropping the ammonia is a combination of water changes and the growth of a bacteria colony.

Your friend has misinformed you at best about your fiddler crab.  I found a pretty good site for you that tells about them and also verifies the fact that they need brackish water.  Here it is.   http://fiddler-crabs.com/?page_id=36   I linked you to the page telling about water needs but the whole site gives lots of information about other needs.

We are not trying to be mean or sneaky with you.  We are trying to help the animals in your care.  We want you to be successful in this great hobby.  Smiley
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Adamo141
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« Reply #40 on: October 22, 2014, 02:21:31 PM »

I have still been doing daily 50% water changes, my ammonia level seems to be consistent at 1ppm which is not good still but much better than 8ppm.
It is tough to take in information when some people are telling me not to touch my tank, not to clean anything and not to do any water changes and to let the ammonia issue solve itself... this info came from one of my lfs and sounds like he just wants me to buy more fish in the long run. That's why I came here and to another forum where multiple people give input such as daily water changes(which I have been doing) some say 25%,50% or even 80%. I understand that the prime converts ammonia to ammonium which is a "non-toxic" form. My API ammonia test would still show either form in the water since the API tests for both.
I was told to add a second filter, so I added a hang on the back filter which should double my biological filter along with mechanical. I understand that this along with water changes has helped to decrease the ammonia reading. I also understand that the fiddler crab needs brackish water and that my friend was full of crap. I have done the research and feel pretty competent. As for the angel fish I will have a 55 gallon tank in my possession in 2 weeks in which I will do a fishless cycle. I also understand that everyone here is trying to help, at first I felt like I was being attacked by being told I needed to return my fish and start over. I do not want to hurt any of my fish and that's why I came here for help with my water parameters.

So anyway thank you all I will continue to update, also this morning I noticed my female killi fish is getting plump with a dark spot forming on her backside... thinking she might be getting ready to lay eggs?
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Pat Mary
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« Reply #41 on: October 22, 2014, 02:39:22 PM »

With your killifish, it depends on whether they are egglayers or livebearers.  Have you determined what species you have?

This hobby isn't as complicated as it must seem to be to you.  Most of it is based on plain common sense, with an emphasis on water chemistry.  Smiley  What you should be trying to do is to duplicate the conditions that your fish come from.  This means that, in a small tank, the fish should really originate from the same part of the world, from the same water conditions and be sure that there is enough room for territories and swimming (and friends in some cases).  When you have a 10 gallon tank, there is probably only about 8 gallons or so of water in there after you put in a substrate, plants and ornaments.  That isn't much water.  This is why we sort of jumped at your stocking.  We wanted you to understand that these fish were living in a closet and could not continue that way. 

The hobby requires patience and research.  If you have those qualities, you will soon be telling newbies that their tanks are too small for the fish they have!
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When in doubt, do a water change.
Karen
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I wish I was a fish!


« Reply #42 on: October 22, 2014, 02:53:57 PM »

Stop and ask your self "what does the person giving me information have to gain by giving me good/bad information?"

The fish stores sell you more things if they give you bad information.  You stop buying things if they give you good information.

What do I have to gain from giving you information?  I am just here to help the fish.
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Adamo141
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« Reply #43 on: October 22, 2014, 06:53:18 PM »

Aphyosemion gardneri the male has blue with red spots and the female is more of a yellow color with no spots
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« Reply #44 on: October 22, 2014, 07:32:11 PM »

Here is an account of them breeding.  It sounds like they do better in a species only tank.  http://www.aquahobby.com/gallery/e_gardneri.php
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« Reply #45 on: October 22, 2014, 09:37:55 PM »

neither of mine show any signs of aggression towards my other fish, maybe they were raised in community tanks from fry.
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Claire
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« Reply #46 on: October 23, 2014, 10:22:16 AM »

Are you moving all your fish to the 55gal and making the 10 gal into a fiddler crab environment?
(I am unaware of what size tank they need so don't know if that is a solution)

You won't have to start a cycle of from start once you get the 55gal.
You have 2 filters on your tank just now yes?
Move one of them, and the fish, over to the 55 gal when you get it and it will jump start the cycle.

What are your ammonia, NitrIte and NitrAte readings today?
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« Reply #47 on: October 23, 2014, 09:40:52 PM »

Not sure what I will do with the crab trying to rehome it. And all my readings were the same as they have been. Still continuing daily water changes
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Claire
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« Reply #48 on: October 24, 2014, 04:07:06 AM »

Wont your friend take it back?
You did a water change and your nitrate reading remained the same? I'm not sure how that's possible.
The ammonia in your tap water explains the lack of change in your ammonia reading but the nitrate...?
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« Reply #49 on: October 24, 2014, 06:58:02 AM »

I haven't asked him, but my ammonia reading in my tap pretreatment and post are both 0ppm so how would that explain the ammonia level staying the same? Also my mistake the nitrates came back at 0ppm. This morning my tests were:
Ammonia- 0.5ppm
Nitrite-0ppm
Nitrate- unsure- to me looked slightly orange
pH-7.4
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