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Author Topic: All fishes died..why?  (Read 2061 times)
Dea_88
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Macedonia, The Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, The Former Yugoslav Republic of

Posts: 9


« on: April 21, 2016, 07:27:13 AM »

Tank Size: 10 galon

Filtration (include media types i.e. activated carbon, floss, etc): none

How long has your tank been set up: 2 months

Using a liquid reagent test kit, please provide the following:

Ammonia:0
Nitrites:0
Nitrates:<20
PH: 8

Temperature: 30 C

Substrate: gravel

Décor/Live or fake plants: java moss and one amazon sword

Maintenance (water changes-how much, how often, vacuum, etc): once a week 40% water change

Dechlorinator: no

Who lives in your tank? Include a  listing of inhabitants, feeding schedule, and how long they have had the inhabitants.
there were 1 betta, 5 neon tetra, 3 red eye tetra, 2 kuhli loach, 2 corydoras, 3 rummy nose, 1 golden apple snail

What symptoms are being exhibited and when did they start:
all died with white spots and rotten tails, couldn't swim after a period of time. all happened in no more then 10 days
only one red eye tetra is still alive but not looking good at all and the golden apple snail is still alive and doing good.
it all happened when i put in the rummy nose tetras which looked good when i bought them.
i made a ich treatment didnt work. i raised the temp at 30 C it was 25 before that.
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Dea_88
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Macedonia, The Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, The Former Yugoslav Republic of

Posts: 9


« Reply #1 on: April 21, 2016, 07:46:25 AM »

Tank Size: 10 galon

Filtration (include media types i.e. activated carbon, floss, etc): none

How long has your tank been set up: 2 months

Using a liquid reagent test kit, please provide the following:

Ammonia:0
Nitrites:0
Nitrates:<20
PH: 8

Temperature: 30 C

Substrate: gravel

Décor/Live or fake plants: java moss and one amazon sword

Maintenance (water changes-how much, how often, vacuum, etc): once a week 40% water change

Dechlorinator: no

Who lives in your tank? Include a  listing of inhabitants, feeding schedule, and how long they have had the inhabitants.
there were 1 betta, 5 neon tetra, 3 red eye tetra, 2 kuhli loach, 2 corydoras, 3 rummy nose, 1 golden apple snail

What symptoms are being exhibited and when did they start:
all died with white spots and rotten tails, couldn't swim after a period of time. all happened in no more then 10 days
only one red eye tetra is still alive but not looking good at all and the golden apple snail is still alive and doing good.
it all happened when i put in the rummy nose tetras which looked good when i bought them.
i made a ich treatment didnt work. i raised the temp at 30 C it was 25 before that.
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Dea_88
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Macedonia, The Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, The Former Yugoslav Republic of

Posts: 9


« Reply #2 on: April 21, 2016, 07:47:36 AM »

on the reply i posted on the subject there is a link of a picture of the last fish i have...help
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Pat Mary
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Posts: 8,655



« Reply #3 on: April 21, 2016, 08:53:24 AM »

Dea, there are so many reasons that your fish died that I don't even know where to begin. Sad

First of all, your tank is much too small for all of those creatures to be able to live.  A 10 gallon tank doesn't hold much water.  Here is a link to an article giving ideas for what can live in a 10 gallon:     http://www.badmanstropicalfish.com/forum/index.php?action=printpage;topic=11184.0     Pick out your favorite fish and we will go from there.

2.  If for some reason, you are not able to use a filter, you would have to do 100% water changes daily.  Fish produce ammonia which is toxic for them.  With that many fish in your tank and not many plants, a reading of 0 ammonia is unlikely.

3.  I don't know about the water supply in Macedonia.  But, if the water is treated with chloramines or chlorine before it gets to your home (which it probably is), you will need to use a dechlorinator.

The fish had Ich which more than likely came from adding the rummy nose tetras without quarantining them and also from overcrowding in the tank.  When you get new fish, they should always be quarantined for 4-6 weeks before being added to the main tank.

Read the link that I gave to you.  If you have any questions, we will be glad to help.  Smiley

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When in doubt, do a water change.
rasaqua
Make room for more stuff
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I know where Russ's stuff is.


« Reply #4 on: April 21, 2016, 09:38:41 PM »

"Filtration (include media types i.e. activated carbon, floss, etc): none"

That is somewhat confusing, although not impossible, but it should take more water changes than you indicated to produce the testing results. Like Pat Mary said, there could be a number of things affecting your fish, i.e., parasitic infection followed by a bacteria infection. What ich treatment did you try before raising the water temperature?
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When one can't explain things simply, they just don't really understand it.
Dea_88
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Macedonia, The Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, The Former Yugoslav Republic of

Posts: 9


« Reply #5 on: April 21, 2016, 11:48:36 PM »

i have a filter the one that is in tank small one coz i could find any other that wont make strong current coz of the betta but i dont use carbon or anything else in it, i do use tap water but i leave it in bottles to sit for couple of days before i use it. the tank was cycled.
i am aware of the number of fishes i can stock my tank with. all of them were just fine until i put the rummy noses in. i couldn believe how fast all of them died ...the thing i was mostly confused was that illness looked like ich and use the treatment for it didnt work...so thats why i put a pic of the fish. is it possible i miss interpreted the illness? is it something else then ich?
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Dea_88
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Macedonia, The Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, The Former Yugoslav Republic of

Posts: 9


« Reply #6 on: April 21, 2016, 11:55:07 PM »

as they explained to me i should rise the temp to 30C for couple of days and use medication. the one i found is "ICHTHYOPUR" (made in macedonia) and it has kalium iodide, malachite green oxalate, aqua purificata.
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Pat Mary
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« Reply #7 on: April 22, 2016, 09:12:11 AM »

When tap water is left out for a few days, all that does is dissipate the gases and chlorine.  I used to do that years ago when chlorine was really the only thing that municipalities added to the water supply.  But now the add more and a dechlorinator must be used unless you are using water from a private well.

i am aware of the number of fishes i can stock my tank with. all of them were just fine until i put the rummy noses in. i couldn believe how fast all of them died ...

I don't think you are as aware as you think you are.  Smiley   Your tank was extremely overstocked before you put the rummy noses in...they just put that tank over the top.

Even fish that look healthy can bring disease and parasites to a tank.  That is why QT is so important.  I am not saying that to upset you but am saying it to inform you that that is an important step in this hobby.  If you want to be successful, QT is one of the things that must be done.

How long of a period did you use the Ich treatment for?
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When in doubt, do a water change.
Dea_88
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Macedonia, The Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, The Former Yugoslav Republic of

Posts: 9


« Reply #8 on: April 22, 2016, 09:21:48 AM »

for 3 days i was rising the temp slowly and then as they instructed me in the pet shop the first day i added 30 drops of the chemical the second day i added 15 drops and then i changed 50% of the water and added one drop... and left the temp at 30C...i know i made mistake with too many fish but its frustrating not to be able to help them with the ich. (if it was ich)
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Pat Mary
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« Reply #9 on: April 22, 2016, 09:45:53 AM »

I could be wrong but I do think it was Ich.

Ich has a life cycle.  When you see the white salt-like spots on the fish, the Ich parasite is encased in a hard "shell" which protects the parasite.  After a period of time, it falls off into the substrate but is still protected by its "shell".  Later. they become free swimming and enter the water column.  They are very tiny and cannot be seen with the naked eye,  This is when they are vulnerable to meds because they are no longer in their shells.  If no meds are in the water column when they are free swimming, they will attach to a passing fish and start their cycle all over again.

That is a very condensed explanation of what happens with Ich.  The point that I am trying to make is that meds need to be used for a long enough period to "get them" when they can be killed.  It may be that the meds should have been used for a longer time.
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When in doubt, do a water change.
Danny_prayer23
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« Reply #10 on: March 01, 2017, 04:48:49 AM »

I have to agree with Pat Mary that :
Quote
Dea, there are so many reasons that your fish died that I don't even know where to begin. Sad


2.  If for some reason, you are not able to use a filter, you would have to do 100% water changes daily.  Fish produce ammonia which is toxic for them.  With that many fish in your tank and not many plants, a reading of 0 ammonia is unlikely.

3.  I don't know about the water supply in Macedonia.  But, if the water is treated with chloramines or chlorine before it gets to your home (which it probably is), you will need to use a dechlorinator.

Maybe there was something in the water, chemicals, toxic or bacteria. Try to remove tank clean it and get waqter from different source. I would recommend you to take this fish and check for viruses or bacteria.
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moonbunny
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« Reply #11 on: March 06, 2017, 02:04:46 PM »

Hi Dea_88,

Welcome to Badmans welcome

I just wanted to mention fish hardiness.  Tetras are pretty sensitive fish requiring fairly stable conditions in very well-filtered water and sometimes with all these parameters right rummys can succumb to common illnesses pretty quickly. 

Are you thinking of upgrading to a larger tank to accommodate all of your animals?  If you do, you might want to plant heavily to help cycle nitrites, nitrates and ammonia.  Also, a tank with the greatest surface area possible would aid oxygen/CO2 exchange for both the fish and plants.  One nice thing about upgrading to a larger tank is that it would provide areas of relatively calm waters for your betta even with a nice filter on the tank.

Bettas, by the way, love playing in the water--whether it's a small current or a small airstone.  They're pretty adorable at it, too  fish16
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Amp2020
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« Reply #12 on: March 10, 2017, 09:39:12 PM »

Assuming the water test numbers are accurate and ammonia truly is zero. My guesses are from chloramines in the tap water, or bacterial infection such as columnaris.

City water (municipality water) has both chlorine and ammonia that combine to form chloramines. Using a water conditioner is an absolute must. Letting containers of water sit out over night does nothing to remove chloramines. I suggest using Prime or AmQuel Plus to treat tap water. If you have well water, then no water conditioner is required unless there's levels of ammonia that need to be neutralized. Some shallow wells will have ammonia levels that fluctuate throughout the year. So routine testing for ammonia is recommends before using well water.

If chloramines is not the cause, due to using well water, then it's probably from a parasite or bacterial infection. Lots of infection may look like ich to the untrained eye. Most LFS get their fish from reputable breeders and importers that use copper to control ich from spreading. So unless you got a direct shipment from overseas straight from a collector, then I wouldn't suspect ich. That may explain why the medicine had no affect.  Look up columnaris infections and see if your fish looked similar.
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