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Author Topic: Heat ICH TREATMENT DID'NT WORK / How to remove ich?! HELP !!!  (Read 650 times)
Kuckju
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« on: May 18, 2016, 06:22:38 AM »

Hello, from several months my fish are having problem with ICH disease. I can't believe why it takes so long :/ ...In the whole time of having this disease I only saw couple times dots on my fish, they don't have dots but they are rubbing. It's very strange because I has ICH disease for 3 months.
My fish aren't dying but i'm worried !

I've tried many of ways to beat this up but nothing helped. I been using: salt curation(1teaspoon for 1gal in 10days), Kordon ich attack(no effect,money lost), methylrosanilinium chloride 1% / gentian violet 1% - didn't worked and killed a corydoras and shrimps (unfortunately someone has recommended it), and as a last treatment i been using heat treatment.

I have read that I have to in the time of 2 weeks I need to hold the temperature 30C / 86F.
My heater sucks and temperature was different (day: sometimes 86F/30C, sometimes 87,8F / 31C, night: 89,6F / 32C).
In the central europe people recommend to heat the tank with 89,6F / 32C but here you are saying 86F/30C. Does the 86F / 30C are going to kill ICH if in this temperature ICH is just sleeping?
Maybe the reason why i still having ICH is because my temperature wasn't steable - sometimes 86F/30C , 87,8F / 31C, 89,6F / 32C. WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT IT? Maybe this method works only in steable temperature 86F or 89,6F?
My fish had no problems with 89,6F / 32C.My fish was OK.
For any price I don't want to use chemicals. The young fish(fry) in my tank can be distorted by chemicals.

Please someone with some experience HELP ME because nothing helps. You now some more working methods?

I leave in Poland but I hope my english is understable.
THANKS.
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Pat Mary
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« Reply #1 on: May 18, 2016, 08:34:51 AM »

The rubbing that you are seeing (also called "flashing") doesn't always happen just because of Ich.  There can be many reasons for this activity.

Please look at this link and answer all of the questions asked on it.  That will give us a description of your aquarium so we can figure out what is going on.      http://www.badmanstropicalfish.com/forum/index.php?topic=30814.0

In addition to that, if you are able please tell us what the KH and GH readings are.

Also, if your heater is acting up, there is a possibility that there might be a voltage leak or something like that.

Do you wash and rinse your hands before you put them into the tank?

Your English is perfect.  I understand you completely.  Welcome to Badman's!  Smiley

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When in doubt, do a water change.
TwoTankAmin
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Tanks: 20- from 5.5 to 150 gals.
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« Reply #2 on: May 18, 2016, 12:22:29 PM »

I doubt it is ich. A bad case of ich is easy to see. The nature of ich is such that the longer it is not eliminated in a tank, the worse it gets. Let me quote you on this from one of the oldest fish sites in the USA:

Quote
Freshwater Ich
Symptoms: Fish look like they have little white salt grains on them and may scratch against objects in the tank.

White spot disease (Ichthyopthirius multifiliis) is caused by a protozoan with a life cycle that includes a free-living stage. Ich grows on a fish --> it falls off and attaches to gravel or tank glass --> it reproduces to MANY parasites --> these swarmers then attach to other fish. If the swarmers do not find a fish host, they die in about 3 days (depending on the water temperature).

Therefore, to treat it, medicine must be added to the display tank to kill free-living parasites. If fish are removed to quarantine, parasites living in the tank will escape the treatment -- unless ALL fish are removed for about a week in freshwater or three weeks in saltwater systems. In a reef tank, where invertebrates are sensitive to ich medications, removing the fish is the only option. Some people think that ich is probably dormant in most tanks. It is most often triggered by temperature fluctuations.

Remedy: For most fish, use a medication with formalin and malachite green. These are the active ingredients in many ich medications at fish shops. Some products are Kordon's Rid Ich and Aquarium Products' Quick Cure. Just read the label and you may find others. Check for temperature fluctuations in the tank and fix them to avoid recurrences. Note that tetras can be a little sensitive to malachite green, so use it at half the dose.

Use these products as directed (usually a daily dose) until all of the fish are spot-free. Then dose every three days for a total of four more doses. This will kill any free-swimming parasites as they hatch out of cysts.

Another remedy is to raise the tank temperature to about 90 deg F and add 1 tsp/gallon salt to the water. Not all fish tolerate this.

Finally, one can treat ich with a ``transfer method.'' Fish are moved daily into a different tank with clean, conditioned, warmed water. Parasites that came off of the fish are left behind in the tank. After moving the fish daily for a week, the fish (presumably cured) can be put back into the main tank. The disadvantage of this method is that it stresses both fish and fishkeeper.
from http://fins.actwin.com/aquariafaq.html

I have highlighted the important part in blue. The point is that if one does not kill off ich, its gets worse and worse and it will eventually kill fish. You can see pictures here http://badmanstropicalfish.com/fish_palace/tropicalfish_disease_identification.html#Ich click on each of the 4 pictures to enlarge them and you will see what ich covered fish look like.

Finally, there are some strains of ich that have a resistance to many of the more popular cures. One thing that has been shown to work in such cases is Quinine Sulfate although it is generally not the preferred medication. You can Google "Quinine Sulfate + Ich" vor more information. This is the same drug used to treat malaria in humans. Malaria is a protozoan disease as is Ich.

Hope this helps
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“Everyone is entitled to his own opinion, but not to his own facts.” Daniel Patrick Moynihan
samericancichlidgirl
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Fish are a pet for life. Thrive, not just survive!


« Reply #3 on: May 18, 2016, 12:51:04 PM »

I am having a very similar issue with my africans but I have not actually seen any signs of ich. Do you have a male/female mix or mostly males? What kinds of africans do you keep? Do they shake their heads too along with the flashing? 

Maybe our resolution will be the same, so I'm following both my post and yours.
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