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Main Index > Detailed Fish Profiles > Anabantids > Honey Gourami
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This page will give a completely detailed profile of the selected fish, from A to Z. The profiled fish will be chosen randomly by Badman, and will come from the complete genre of tropical fish. New profiles are added on a regular basis. If you would like to submit a profile for the site please contact me. Don't forget to let us know you experiences with this fish by filling out the




Asia

 

Honey Gourami
Male

Trichogaster (Colisa) chuna

 

Overview:
    Colorful and timid the Honey gourami is more demanding than most and is best kept with slow peaceful species. Once established they will add a splash of color seldom seen in the freshwater aquarium.

Quick stats:

    Listed tank sizes are the minimum
    Size: Up to 3" (7.6cm)
    Tank: 24 inches
    Strata: Bottom, middle
    PH: 6.0 to 8.0
    Hardness: Soft to medium. dH range: 5.0 - 19.0
    Temperature: 72°F to 82°F (22-28°C)

Classification

    Order: Perciformes
    Suborder: Anabantoidei
    Family: Osphromenidae
    Genera: Trichogaster

Common name
    Honey Gourami or Honeycomb Gourami


Image gallery:
    Additional species photographs

Discuss:

    Badmans' Forum

Distribution

    Fairly widespread throughout India, mostly in the Ganges River valley.


General Body Form
    Very similar to the readily available Dwarf Gourami ( colisa Lalia ), but a little more slender and the males Dorsal and Anal fins are less pronounced. Ventral fins are much longer than the height of the body. The back edge of the Caudal fin is indented slightly. Length to about two inches.


Coloration
    Base color is pale Ocher, with a faint silvery sheen which becomes more pronounced towards the belly. A dark Brown band runs from the eye to the beginning of the Cauda fin. During courting males attain a very brilliant coloration; the sides of the body including the back part of the Dorsal, Anal and Caudal fins become bright Honey-Yellow to flame Red-Orange. The spiny rays of the Ventral fin are orange and the Anal fin has reddish tips. Note: this fish usually appears almost colorless in dealers tanks.
Honey Gourami
Red Morph

Maintenance
    A peaceful species that benefits from a fairly large aquaria. The tank should be densely planted and also contain some floating plants if possible Its tank-mates should be small peaceful lower tank dwelling species. Feeding is not a problem as they take prepared staple food along with supplements of live and frozen food.
    Their pH should be slightly acidic {6.5} to neutral {7.0}, GH is acceptable in almost all ranges. Temperature range of mid seventies to low eighties. They dwell in the middle to upper areas of the tank.


Breeding
    The gouramies are bubble-nest egg layers. The nest are always built by the male and its shape and size depends on the species. The nest is made at the surface among the floating plants. The male courts the female under the nest, where he curls around her and turns her belly-up. The eggs are laid and fertilized in this position. The eggs float up to the nest where the male will keep a constant watch. He will chase away all intruders including the female, as well as keeping the nest in constant repair. Any eggs or fry that fall from the nest will be quickly scooped up and gently spat back into the nest. The eggs hatch in about twenty-five to thirty hours and the fry become free swimming in four to five days. They are very small and must be fed fine flake or live food. They grow very quickly. Mating can usually be triggered by lowering the water level and raising the water temperature. The higher water temperature should be maintained for several weeks after hatching.
Honey Gourami female
Female



Your comments:

 

Please remember that the following comments are personal experiences and may or may not apply to your setup. Use them as guide to help better understand your fish, like us all individuals will behave differently under different circumstances.

 


From: Jessica
Date:2/27/2011
Unlike other dwarf gouramis, I have found this species easy to keep. I have five males (two normal honey, three golden honey) in a 43 gallon tank that is heavily planted. There is minimal aggression between them, just a small amount of chasing if one gets in anothers way. I keep them with adult cherry shrimp and this hasn't been a problem (but they will eat baby shrimp). They are fun and colourful to watch - definitely the main attraction in my aquarium.
From: Luh
Date:3/3/2010
Gorgeous fish, I have a male with two females in a peaceful community tank with cory cats, glowlights and a group of 6 female betta splendens. Everybody gets along with no problems whatsoever. I do recommend keeping honeys in a one male:two females ratio, as the males can be quiet persistent with the gals, but not as persistent as they would be with another blokey around and less ladies to go around. My guy is in breeding condition right now, bright red with metallic blue along his throat and the front of the anal fin, yellow on his dorsal. Luckily he is somewhat of a gentlemen and the trio often move around the tank together peacefully. Polygamy is obviously working for them hehe.
From: Alan
Date:10/25/2006
I have two of these in a 20 gallon tank. While the lights are on they have half the tank each and if one goes into the others half he will promptly be chased out. As yet there has been no actual fighting and I check for damage on a daily basis. The strange thing is, at night they get along great. The tank is not divided in two and they will happily swim and eat together.

From: Janek
Date:05/15/2003
Wonderful fish. From my experience, really important to keep water quality high. Fish were very active and eager for food, but when nitrate levels got high, they got sluggish and stayed at the bottom of the tank and did not come out for food. With a major water change they perked up and were back to their old selves in a couple of days.

From: Jezza
Date:06/22/2002
Awesome fish and easy to breed.

From: Iain
Date:07/11/2002
I found that these fish can be pretty aggressive whilst they are still juveniles. Attacking anything that is in the aquarium. Including my 2 Texas Cichlids, they didn't get away with it and were soon put into their place ! I relocated them both to 2 other tanks to separate them because they were really fighting with each other. I put the pair back into my 30 gallon this morning and they are fine and are getting on with everything else in my aquarium now.

 

 

 

 

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