- An elegant, visually-stunning and easy to care for fish. The ideal community fish, schooling peacefully among small catfish, livebearers, loaches, microrasboras, rainbowfish and tetras as well as enjoying with them their varied diets. Danios have the talent of being dither fish for shy, sensitive fish in need of reassurance that all is well in the tank and, in doing so, gladly earn their keep.
Common name: Pearl Danio, Rose Danio
- Asia: Myanmar to Laos and Sumatra, Indonesia. Irrawaddy, Salween, Mekong and Mae Khlong drainages. Occupies hill streams and running waters of the lower Mekong.
General Body Form:A moderately rounded, laterally-elongated fusiform shape. Fins are moderate-length and rounded, with a homocercal caudal fin. Small terminal mouth with two pair of long barbels (rostral barbles extend approximately mid-orbit, maxillary barbles extending past the pectoral fin origin.)
Coloration:A very pretty silvery-pink opalescent field with gleaming flashes of blue/violet and yellow/green dorsally and along the flanks (colors more vibrant in males, particularly when presenting toward rivals.) Two iridescent yellow-white lines stripes extend from below the origin of the dorsal fin to the caudal peduncle (often shadowed by delicate matching stripes of laser red, a color which also appears as a ventral blush on some males.)
Diet:Omnivorous: Feeding primarily of insects and larvae in nature, in the aquarium, D. roseus eagerly accepts live and frozen bloodworm, brine shrimp, daphnia, tubifex, mosquito larvae and zooplankton as well as quality small pellet and flake variety diets. For best coloration, live and frozen proteins should be offered at least part of the time.
- Danios enjoy the longest tank you can afford them. A small stream or riverine tank can be established with a substrate of gravel, small stones or water-worn small, variably-sized boulders. Driftwood, branches and plants serve multiple purposes—décor, cover and, in the case of the plants, increased biological filtration.
- Anubias and water ferns are recommended both for their ability to be secured to driftwood and rocks as well as their hardiness in a tank with a moderately strong current. For best success, low lighting (of 45 – 60 watts) is recommended.
- This might be accomplished by keeping the tank by a window with moderate morning sunlight. With higher light and the addition of CO2, both plants grow quickly and lushly, so ensure your water column contains the sufficient nutrients. Both darker substrate and plants have the effect of brightening the coloration of the fish. Their colors are lustrous and most prismatic in morning light and under full-spectrum lighting. Danio are strong swimmers and are prone to jumping, so be sure to provide a tight-fitting lid for your aquarium.
- To replicate this variety of conditions, begin with strong current from your filter output (which can be increased by adding a small powerhead or circulation pump, basing the amount of circulation by the constitution of other fish that may be in the tank.) Ensure stretches of calmer water for resting, simulating marginal areas in their natural habitats.
- This very peaceful little fish is stunning in a species-only tank and are perfect tank-mates for a non-aggressive community tank. In groups of 8 – 10 or greater, males demonstrate brighter colors as they compete with rivals for the attention of females. They’re best kept in a ratio of 1 male to 2 females.
- Anabantids, barbs, other small danios, rasbora, catfish, livebearers, loaches, rainbowfish and tetras would all be peaceable companions. One endearing trait of danios is their ability to be dither fish, calming others and assuring them freedom from predation with the regular, whirling motion of their swimming patterns, coaxing more nervous fish out of hiding.
Biotope:Freshwater: In nature, D. albolineatus is accustomed to cool running water, springs associated with waterfalls, small creeks and drainages as well as the Mekong River.
Oviparous: Eggscatters: Moderate to Easy.
Sexual dimorphism: Females grow slightly larger and more deeply-bodied and are rounder when gravid than smaller, slimmer-bodied males with rosy ventrals.
Without intervention in a densely-planted aquarium, it’s possible for small numbers of fry will survive (although they’ll do so in absence of parental care.) For greater fry survival, a spawning tank may be established.
A breeding tank– at least 10 – 20 gallons (37.9 – 75.7 liters)–with marbles as substrate allow the eggs to fall between the marbles and safely out of reach of their parents mouths. Additionally, your tank should have heated, mature water, a sponge filter and an air stone for oxygenation and circulation (the addition of baby grass, java moss or spawning mops is optional as the safest place for the eggs to fall is between the marbles.)
At least a week prior to spawning, condition the parents on a diet rich in protein such as bloodworms, brine shrimp or tubifex worms which will help build roe in the female. When the female(s) to be spawned appear gravid (their abdomens will be distended with eggs and a small dark spot will appear just before the fish’s urogenital opening,) one or two pair should be placed into the breeding tank toward evening (as spawning will occur around dawn.) When ready, the female releases close to 300 eggs, with the male following, fertilizing the eggs as he swims along.
D. albolineatus provides no aftercare for the eggs, so it’s best to remove the adults within 24 – 48 hours of spawning. Incubation of the eggs generally takes 24 -36 hours, during which keeping a tank dark can help reduce fungal growth. The fry being free-swimming within 6 to 7 days. Initially offer the fry green algae, small crustaceans, paramecium and protozoans common in aufwuch cultures, segueing to Artemia naupaii and crushed flake food in a week or so once the fry are large enough to accept the larger foods.
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